These helpful hints will make travel in Delhi easier for you

TAXIS: Each neighbourhood has it's own taxi stand. They are accessible by phone around the clock. Black and yellow cabs usually sport an outdated meter, but don't worry. All drivers carry cards to show you what the correct fare is... as it corresponds to the meter. This is painful... but that's the way it is.

The all-white taxis do not use meters. They run on pre-determined flat fees. You can book one of these all- whites for an entire day, or for a few hours, in which case you'll pay according to pre-specified charges.

AUTORICKSHAWS: A convenient and cheap way to get around. Delhi has a slew of 'scooters' as they are called, and they're pretty much available everywhere. They run on an out dated meter as well, so be sure to check their conversion cards for the correct fare (add 90% after 9 pm). Avoid agreeing to a flat rate unless you're sure of the cost of the trip.

BUSES: Avoidable, both as a traveller and as a pedestrian.

TIPPING: This is only a pointer. In RESTAURANTS AND HOTELS: Tips are pooled and shared by all working staff. Be generous. When in doubt, 10 % will do nicely. HOTEL STAFF: depends on how happy you are.

DRIVERS: If you have hired a driver for the day, you need to provide for his lunch and/or dinner. The standard rate is Rs 40 per meal and a tip of around Rs 100 at the end of the day. If travelling as a group by bus then each of you must tip the attendant. Anywhere between Rs 10 and Rs 50.

BARGAINING: Street vendors expect bargaining. In shops, when buying in bulk, ask for a discount. Observe experienced Delhi shoppers and play it by ear. Shopkeepers usually oblige.

RETURNS AND EXCHANGES: Delhi shopkeepers are quite understanding. But remember to take your purchase receipt or bill.

PHONES: Carry a lot of Rs 1 coins for pay phones. Or look for booths with STD/ISD signs. Here you pay per the computer printout. Keep change handy.

DRESS: Informal. Skimpily dressed women (no matter how normal by western standards) will be stared at. Wear informal, loose clothes during the day and you won't feel uncomfortable. Smart, casual clothes will do for eating out in the evening or visiting friends.

WINTER WEAR: If you are travelling to Delhi between December and February, remember to carry at least a few sweaters. It can get pretty cold, especially at night. Delhi homes are not centrally heated so you might be chilly indoors as well. You can also pack a few woollen shawls, jackets, gloves, scarves, socks and shoes. Conversely, it gets very, very hot in the summer. (Delhi is close to a desert.) In the summer, you'll need loose-fitting, cool summer clothes, perhaps a hat and definitely some sunglasses.

ETIQUETTE: Delhi people are informal, but in some homes you must take your shoes off before entering. A collection of footwear near the doorway is a good indicator of the kind of home you're entering. Footwear is not worn in places of worship.

INVITATIONS: It is fashionable to be late in Delhi, but punctuality is expected for business dinners and weddings. Wine (which is very expensive) is not commonly offered at parties. Most people drink whisky, vodka and other hard liquor watered down with soda, water or beer, until dinner is served. That's usually around midnight. It's a good idea to grab a bite before you go. Dinner also signals the end of the party, so it isn't impolite to eat and run.

EATING OUT: Bars close at 11:00 pm (last orders - 10:45 pm). Most restaurants stay open till midnight. But if you are hungry early in the morning, try one of the 24-hr coffee shops in the bigger hotels for western food and at the restaurants at Pandara Road for North Indian cuisine. These are open till around 3 am.

HEALTH: Drink mineral water or aerated drinks. Toilet paper may not always be available, so carry a roll.

BEGGARS: Instead of giving them money, give them edibles like cookies, bananas or sweets.

CRIME: Statistically, Delhi has the country's highest crime rate. But a little care and agility on your part will ensure an event free trip. Be sensible. Don't flash wads of notes. Leave valuables and passports in the hotel safe. If in doubt, check your routes in advance.

ONE LAST WORD OF ADVICE: Smile. It'll make everyone feel better.